Amiri, Alyx e Craig Green supportano il cambiamento dell'industria della moda

Con il sostegno di “The Business of Fashion”, un gruppo di designer, CEO e buyer hanno unito le forze, creando una proposta di cambiamento radicale sul modo in cui l’industria della moda funziona. La crisi del Covid-19 ha reso, infatti, una trasformazione del settore più necessaria che mai. Forti sono state le dichiarazioni di Giorgio Armani di qualche settimana fa.

Il lusso non può e non deve essere veloce perché ha bisogno di tempo per essere raggiunto e apprezzato.

Già molti nomi noti del fashion system hanno aderito a questo campagna, tra cui i designer Craig Green, AMI, Amiri, Alyx e A-Cold-Wall e lo stesso Armani, nonché importanti store internazionali come Selfridges, Machine-A e Antonioli.

Gli obiettivi del gruppo sono condensati in un piano in tre fasi, intitolato “Reset the fashion calendar”, “Reimagine Fashion Shows” e “Break Fashion’s Addiction to Discounting”. Ovvero l’importanza di riallineare le tempistiche retail ai bisogni dei consumatori, e di ripensare quelle delle vendite a sconto.

Creare un flusso più bilanciato di consegne durante la stagione assicurando merce nuova, ma fornendo anche il tempo necessario per suscitare desiderio

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We were getting calls. I’m sure everyone was, writes BoF’s Tim Blanks. The coronavirus had hit fashion hard. There was a bush telegraph of nervous designers looking for any kind of reassurance against a growing tide of bad news. It was obvious that independent designers were going to be hit hardest. For those on a shoestring, it just got thinner. For those who were more established, querulous retailers and landlords were the challenge. Fashion has traditionally been an industry of secrets, but the virus made a nonsense of that. It was time for people to talk openly to each other. BoF facilitated a conversation, via Zoom, that brought dozens of independent designers and storeowners together. In bi-weekly digital gatherings over the past month – a whole patchwork of faces from all over the world – these designers and retailers hashed out a game plan for the future. In one way, it was purest logic. The fashion calendar – the showing, selling and shipping of clothes – divorced itself from common sense a long while ago. The rhythm of fashion’s seasons was surreally disconnected from the seasons as most of the world understood them. You’d go to buy a winter coat when the mercury dropped and all you’d find was bikinis. Irrational this was, but unquestioned, thanks in large part to the commercial might of American department stores whose tune the industry danced to. So, here were a few screens full of faces prepared to challenge the timetable, to create a new reality out of that old surreality, now turned to ashes by Covid-19. It hasn’t been easy. How could there be consensus with so many different wants and needs on the table? But, sure enough, a proposal on how to rewire the fashion calendar took shape. For me, says Blanks, the most important thing has been the communication. People who knew of each other but had never met are now talking across the globe. The future is collaboration not competition. That’s also how revolutions are made. Fashion needed one, and if it took a dreadful virus to create the conditions for change, that is surely just a measure of how great the need for revolution has been. Read the proposal at rewiringfashion.org #rewiringfashion

Un post condiviso da @ rewiringfashion in data: 14 Mag 2020 alle ore 6:12 PDT

Questi sono i tre argomenti posti in esame, e oggi più che mai in questa fase di pandemia, hanno creato un ambiente in cui le richieste di cambiamento stanno diventando più forti e unificate. Il designer Dries Van Noten ha già lanciato una petizione questo mese per cambiare il calendario della moda e Business of Fashion riporta che per stilarla Van Noten abbia radunato gli altri partecipanti in videocall.

Dai uno sguardo approfondito alle proposte fatte dal gruppo su www.rewiringfashion.org.

Scopri anche come la pandemia cambierà le release di sneakers.

#coronavirus #designers #fashion

Posted By

Paolo Giustozzi

Appassionato di moda, sneakers e design. Mi piace sempre tenermi aggiornato sulle ultime novità e trend e rielaborarli secondo il mio stile personale.