Amiri, Alyx e Craig Green support the change of the fashion industry

With the support of “The Business of Fashion”, a group of designers, CEOs and buyers have joined forces, creating a proposal for radical change in the way the fashion industry works. The Covid-19 crisis has made a transformation of the sector more necessary than ever. Giorgio Armani’s statements from a few weeks ago were strong.

Luxury cannot and must not be fast because it needs time to be achieved and appreciated.

Already many well-known names from the fashion system have joined this campaign, including the designers Craig Green, AMI, Amiri, Alyx and A-Cold-Wall and Armani himself, as well as important international stores such as Selfridges, Machine-A and Antonioli.

The group’s objectives are condensed into a three-phase plan, entitled “Reset the fashion calendar”, “Reimagine Fashion Shows” and “Break Fashion’s Addiction to Discounting”. That is, the importance of realigning retail timelines to the needs of consumers, and rethinking those of discount sales.

Create a more balanced flow of deliveries during the season by ensuring new goods, but also providing the time necessary to arouse desire

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We were getting calls. I’m sure everyone was, writes BoF’s Tim Blanks. The coronavirus had hit fashion hard. There was a bush telegraph of nervous designers looking for any kind of reassurance against a growing tide of bad news. It was obvious that independent designers were going to be hit hardest. For those on a shoestring, it just got thinner. For those who were more established, querulous retailers and landlords were the challenge. Fashion has traditionally been an industry of secrets, but the virus made a nonsense of that. It was time for people to talk openly to each other. BoF facilitated a conversation, via Zoom, that brought dozens of independent designers and storeowners together. In bi-weekly digital gatherings over the past month – a whole patchwork of faces from all over the world – these designers and retailers hashed out a game plan for the future. In one way, it was purest logic. The fashion calendar – the showing, selling and shipping of clothes – divorced itself from common sense a long while ago. The rhythm of fashion’s seasons was surreally disconnected from the seasons as most of the world understood them. You’d go to buy a winter coat when the mercury dropped and all you’d find was bikinis. Irrational this was, but unquestioned, thanks in large part to the commercial might of American department stores whose tune the industry danced to. So, here were a few screens full of faces prepared to challenge the timetable, to create a new reality out of that old surreality, now turned to ashes by Covid-19. It hasn’t been easy. How could there be consensus with so many different wants and needs on the table? But, sure enough, a proposal on how to rewire the fashion calendar took shape. For me, says Blanks, the most important thing has been the communication. People who knew of each other but had never met are now talking across the globe. The future is collaboration not competition. That’s also how revolutions are made. Fashion needed one, and if it took a dreadful virus to create the conditions for change, that is surely just a measure of how great the need for revolution has been. Read the proposal at rewiringfashion.org #rewiringfashion

Un post condiviso da @ rewiringfashion in data: 14 Mag 2020 alle ore 6:12 PDT

These are the three topics examined, and today more than ever in this pandemic phase, they have created an environment in which requests for change are becoming stronger and more unified. Designer Dries Van Noten has already launched a petition this month to change the fashion calendar and Business of Fashion reports that Van Noten has gathered the other participants in videocall to style it.

Take a detailed look at the proposals made by the group on www.rewiringfashion.org.

Also find out how the pandemic will change sneakers releases.

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Paolo Giustozzi

Appassionato di moda, sneakers e design. Mi piace sempre tenermi aggiornato sulle ultime novità e trend e rielaborarli secondo il mio stile personale.