Interview from the new issue of Wait 44
We met Augusto Titoni, founder of one of the most original Italian brands: VV by Kidz.
Hard to pigeonhole, between urban wear, handicraft, poetry. A unique story to tell that we made by Augusto, who with heart in hand and the usual disarming sincerity brought forth the words without putting filters.
Hello Augusto. Tell us your story in the fashion world. How it all started?
Hello Marco. As with many emerging brands, I think it all started really by accident. I was about 20 years old and I started with a friend to print t-shirts used. You know what you do not put more since high school, that smell a bit too ‘mothball transfer paper and iron, that’s all. Then I chose images from the internet of Wolverine or Freddy Mercury; we would print to any other purpose outside of a sense of belonging, a kind of rite of appropriation totemic force of certain images. Is priceless wear your idols, who can enthuse you. Then one Christmas, I got a t-shirt printed with the logo of the Shelby Cobra to Francesco who, among the many things he did just collected antique cars.Ah, I forgot, Francesco was the holder of trademark Vittorio Valerio.
Tell us about the projectof Vittorio Valerio ae birth of VV by Kidz.
In fact, Vittorio Valerio. Francesco was and is for me one of the people I most respect and which are more tied in 28 years. He, young had created a brand, rather than a brand, it had this name. Initially, so before me to participate in the project Vittorio Valerio relevance to the clothing was very relative, let me explain: Vittorio Valerio realized gold plated cover for mobile phones and accessories (such as buttons for shirts and polo) always designed with the same criterion; simplifying, it was a kind of project customization of accessories with luxurious materials such as gold and diamonds. The meeting with Vittorio Valerio led to all’ other, in the sense that the zero point from which we started, it was precisely the creation of a t-shirt with strong connotations craft: a t-shirt that looked really out of the closet of his uncle, made numerous washes old school, to offer basic chassis with engraved or screen printed by hand. Endless catalogs of images back, the logos of ‘army, the biker world, to the theme tattoo … all completely revisited and reproduced manually. In short, a design lover and commercially viable, and that’ why after the first Pitti Immagine in which we participated as exhibitors, about 30 shops had ordered our product and 4 representative offices very valid took care of our distribution (not to mention other important figures who had joined the team, “Vittorio Valerio” … I quote Alessandro, Ghigo, Andrea all).
Then came our first winter Pitti and the need to give continuity to a first draft t-shirt on ‘winter (which is always a big mess) and then to return to a project became “vintage” quell essence of ” luxury “that was at the origin of the brand. So we enlarged the collection to hand-knits (well, sweaters made with kintting needles by grandmothers). Sweater with a strong flavor crafts, enriched with buttons cut manually in olive. A product as valuable and exclusive, is still badly reconciled with a commercial network that was built primarily for a t-shirt. In other words: do not we didn’t sell. Not only, we lost a bit ‘self-esteem and courage in supporting the project VV and so after a few months decided by mutual agreement to dissolve.
Personally I suffered a lot. I could not accept. Fuck that project was my dream, or at least I was able to love him so much that you can define it as such. But sometimes it happens that frustration help you reflect and understand that a failed project can you demolish your ambitions, your aspirations … but will never kill your passion, your ideas and what you mean. Well here it is that from those ashes was born then by VV Kidz.
Why this name?
Yeah … why? It needed a name that I communicated joy every time I pronounced. I wanted to be pure and carefree as a child. I needed a “no project” that would allow me to realize just what I love and be who I am. Then call my “new life” Kidz, it seemed appropriate. The reason is preceded by VV is very simple: I hoped to the end that the project could continue and that Vittorio Valerio Kidz was a creative factory staff to grow in parallel. Therefore, when I registered the name of my company, I thought the name was just right VV by Kidz (or VV Kidz, as I often abbreviate).
But things did not go as I thought and the “VV” remained … no problem, in fact, reminds me every time a spent in my life of great importance to me.
Why you define your brand new luxurius vintage pop? Have you coined this definition?
No, the definition of nu-vintage pop & luxurius, already belonged to Victor Valerio, but I needed to give some sort of continuity in terms of product definition, since the t-shirt of Vittorio Valerio was exactly conceivable as my current head VV By Kidz: pieces that have a distinct retro feel but are reinterpreted in an ‘optical “new” (or nu) date or the fabric or pattern of the garment. The appearance of “pop” and ‘date instead of the violent interpretation that often love to give some pieces of my collections through washes of pastel color or graphics that break and burst onto the “solemnity” of a boss who seems (but is not) dated. It ‘a little’ how to make a mural on a ruin of the country. However, as regards the appearance of the luxurius, the intent was and is to place the product in a perspective of exclusivity (I mean both the product itself, both to shops that are able to resell) and especially of “collecting” I’d like to give every piece of my collections, a timeless dimension and alien to fashions and various phenomena.
How did the mix between pop culture and craftsmanship?
I do not deny being a lover of pop-art and definitely my things are strongly marked. I love the screen printing but also believe in the power of color: the color upsets a ‘work. The poetry of ‘craftsmanship should be played down in my product idea why and pop craftsmanship’ are each in the service of ‘the other. Sure, sometimes born of crap … but I do not care for what I’m doing now is to bring all the ideas that come to end; then the optimum balancing between research and product will come, if it comes. If you come it will mean that I’m good. Good by now, I am not.
Damn … how much modesty! How is it important to live in the area where you are, the Tuscan, for those who create a fashion as ‘artisan’?
Live in my Tuscany’s important to me right now. means estranged from what surrounds you, breathe biological rhythms … live the error as a time of reflection and then growth. understand why a first workshop was possible and now no. Drink a glass of whiskey with those who want to hear what you have to say and think together. inevitably the comparison with others is inevitable … and then down to the valley is critical to understand if you are good or if you’re a freak. Auto-masturbating on a hill is just as easy, and certainly not enough for me … but I’m not ready to go down to the valley to finally tell VV YBY kidz … still feel a big room for improvement and therefore of self-criticism. down to the valley will mean in that case riconoscibile.Sono exist and be grateful for this to all those stores that already host Vv kidz. Thanks to them for their trust.
How did the inspiration for your collections come from?
A collection should be such and such a strand expressive for a painter or a musician. Who loves this job can not make sense of what he does. Who derive profit just probably yes. Dress is poetry if you want (I’m not saying that I am a poet) is impersonating an era, a style, a specific historical moment, it tells and tell. my collections are born from wanting to tell stories. I could match scores, paintings, sculptures, objects, hairstyles … anything you want to my collection. I can tell all this, and perhaps one day will be beautiful as the first happy thought that I associated with VV kidz was to be a ‘creative workshop before a trademark.
To this one you can not be self-referential. It must be imbued with all forms of expression that can and want to interpret your work. Then you’ll just put together some rag, but something told to those who have the friendliness not to appreciate you, but simply to listen. I hope I have answered your question.
Am I wrong or even you like to collaborate with in shops in a so close to get to create collections tailored to them, garments produced exclusively for a single point of sale?
Brand and shops in my mind, should be a well-matched pair of attack in a 4-4-1-1. It is not a crap what I say because when you play two strikers, one is further back than the other, always serves a good striker of technique that creates space and a bomber that throws in. Well, the stores know how to score goals and if you like a partner you have to know where to put upon him the ball.
I do not have offices or agencies that represent me. I need to look in the eye those who host Kidz in his store. Every time I go into a store trying to figure it out, I try to guess what might be my size inside, touch the leaders among the drying racks and studio who is better than me … who has already gained the trust of the shopkeeper.
Though I have to play every time and it is fitting because for every note that I receive (of course, provided a constructive, not to try to not pay ..) about my product will mean that there are many room for improvement. The time is hard and you have to be allies of the shops … need some respect: without that, what I say has no value.
A brand craft, completely made in Italy. so unique and at the same time international. Are you planning to participate in foreign trade fairs?
I returned from Berlin less than a week ago. here … with this I have said everything.
Tell us about the Spring-Summer 2015 arrived in stores these days.
Before I talked about how I develop my collections. I talked about stories. Well, at the origin of every story there is a path mother made many “episodes” as there are collections. What will come out in March in the shops it called The soul is Growing. It ‘a collection where I face with a good awareness num- vintage style we mentioned above; the soul is growing is the daughter of my first winter output that is definitely a collection of research but much more calm … that’s why the visual impact at the level of chromatic pe is further accentuated. It ‘a very colorful collection that presents a part of the product accessible to a broader target customer, represented by t-shirts, polo shirts, long t shirt, shirts … all rigorously treated with natural enzymes to aid an effect and old school embellished with hand embroidery, repeating patterns in screen printing of bananas, flamingos, anchors etc … the other part of the collection, say that of the total look is much more concept: developed on two fabrics: cotton and linen. Talk about garments coming here and there from different contexts so that the pants in linen damask draws east, the admiral jacket with hooks central recalls the Beatles and dungarees vertical stripes seems that of a American painter intent to brush the fence. Bestseller definitely jacket “Beatles”, ordered by almost all the shops I have. what, in hindsight missing in this collection, it is the development of a part of the product processed with washing a little ‘more basic and less pop say, so people will buy always the same three colors …
Telle us about your winter collection that your customers can enjoy these days and get into the store just next September.
As for ‘winter potertene maybe I hope to talk carefully to September, when it comes out in stores. Meanwhile I just throw them a few things: the collection is called Dockslands Calling … the set is the port, as a metaphor of ‘encounter between the various kidz, children in’ summer are down the hill to reinforce their awareness and now meet grown, tested, some ‘pirates, some’ ninja …. carry on their shoulders different fabrics, some ‘technical a bit bohemian, or suits that would donate to an Eskimo or a Mongolian warrior. ..odori of different lands; but what matters is meeting, because the harbor is a meeting point … and why not if there is no spark meeting.
Another thing that I tell you of the winter collection is actually one thing I’m really happy: as I told you before that my goal is to be a ‘creative workshop even before a brand; Well in Dockslands Calling, for the first time a craftsman intervenes outside of my own collection. And born of bags made from the inner tubes of trucks. I belive they deserve to be seen at least. At least.
Augusto Titoni great character, original, often portrayed by photographers during Pitti and events fashion.
During Pitti I attended a “man-hunting” to those who receive photos at the fair, as disguised as a buffoon. They are drastic in thinking my collections, but not in the life of every day: I think you have to go a bit ‘with leaden feet with criticism and, above all, not to generalize. It ‘s true: usually when I go to the fairs get a lot of shots and I did not mind admitting it …’ I admit that what I enjoy and in a sense makes me pleasure because, of course, I get dressed with things I designed. However, the specific gravity that do to a shot at the show, for me is zero … because no one buys more of your product if you have more shots, it ‘I never put to collect business cards (the limit is’ the photographer to offer it to you). 90% of the photos I receive, not even know where they end up. However, if the fashion is to classify “ridiculous” who receives several photos at the fair …. yes ok I am Augusto Titoni dressing at the fair his ridiculous collection. Amen.
As we see in the person you love to dress your brand and are the best witnesses of yourself. If you could instead choose a spokesperson, speaking of actors, etc. jet set, who would you choose?
VV kidz, has a style that is not for everyone Indeed, a style which together can really enjoy a few. That said, I feel a ‘great satisfaction, when unsuspecting people will try my full or my trousers, and I understand those demanding that you like. Kidz is not for everyone but would like to dress the common people, street people, travelers … much, but much different l ‘from each’ other. That said, there is a star that especially could fit like a glove style VV Kidz better than an ordinary street kid. Of course then the visibility that gives you a “character inside the magic box” is not the same as that of the street child. Then the one or the other (with preference to Mughini if you just have to rip a name from the lips).
What is your favorite brand in addition to your, of course?
I just want to be honest and not pretentious, or both. does not matter: I am inspired by many brands, I seek, reinterpret or simply get the inspiration, the spark to what will be my idea; I have an attitude of obsessive pursuit of my way, the gradual improvement of the detail that will strengthen more and more of my product. All this, however, I do not have a true point of reference. Seeking “my being recognized” and for that, I need to follow others. Then, learn from others is another thing: dwell in Berlin at the window of 14 OZ, see a head shoulder Nigel Cabourn, overlooking a magical, timeless and full of poetry … try a chill because in Berlin pure snows and a great feeling of respect and gratitude for the ‘existence of such beauty. Well, this is an experience that I recommend to many of the phenomena that are around.
For more info about VV by Kidz: official site. Facebook official page.
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