MIU MIU NEOREALISM FOR THE NEXT SUMMER SHOWS IN PARIS
The Miu Miu spring-summer 2020 collection closes, together with that of Vuitton, the Paris fashion week. And it is the most interesting of all the fashion shows seen. Certainly, there is the Margiela one signed by John Galliano which has really changed contemporary stylistic and aesthetic canons. But from the maison and from the designer it is expected a little. Not so much from Miu Miu, instead. In fact, Prada‘s younger sister has been accustomed for years to see on the catwalk the freedom that Miuccia herself does not enjoy the most. Not for who knows what marketing or other issues; rather because the latter has always been the intellectual of the group. The one to take seriously, in short.
This season things went differently and the roles were reversed. The research work – on all levels, from the formal, stylistic, of proportions and materials – was practiced on Miu Miu. While at Prada there was a cry for freedom and personality. To the hymn: less is more.
A sinuous silhouette walks between the 40s and 50s, between the divas such as Anna Magnani and the cinema of Neorealism. Let’s contextualize: these are decades in which Italy must initiate (and conclude) an important, intellectual and political post-war reconstruction. There is poverty and fashion, let’s face it, is not a matter. As indeed happens today for the Milanese fashion house. And this is a common point. So how to represent and unite the naive spirit of Miu Miu with this image?
SENSUALITY AND REUSE OF CLOTHES: THE INTRINSIC MESSAGE OF THE MIU MIU SPRING-SUMMER 2020 COLLECTION
Everyone happens to own a shabby sweater in the closet, perhaps with a hole somewhere, or a pulled thread. Take it, wear it anyway, maybe with a pencil skirt. Unbutton a few buttons and show a shoulder. Put on it a brooch with rhinestones, and is done: the sensuality blossoms, for every size and idea of femininity. Miu Miu follows Prada’s discourse on the reflection that the whole world should make about the waste of energy, the issue of global warming and other collateral issues. It does so, adding brio, useless and at the same time necessary sequins. Hazardous colors and fur elements.
The coats, almost out of proportion with the rest of the look, are the key piece, which jars a little from the age taken into consideration. And that’s fine, because it wouldn’t be Miu Miu and, in general, the very idea of contemporary fashion by Miuccia Prada. Of the «never boring». That of the ugly chic. Which then, in the end, becomes beautiful.
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