Beyond the mainstream. Beyond the spectacularization of fashion. Once the two aspects have been overcome, not only metaphorically but also as a conceptual act, we identify the textile industry as interesting as well as the aesthetic value that they add to each of their creations, especially for the idea of what the word fashion is, expressing it in contemporary way, based on what it has meant in the past: discipline, experimentation and seriousness. Bearing elements of brands such as Giorgio Armani and Gianfranco Ferrè. Luca Larenza, Lucio Vanotti and Vìen, humbly enter the group, adding each their own knowledge and taste.
Luca Larenza ss19 sketch
The trio is one of the protagonists of the four days of events, fashion shows and presentations of the men’s spring-summer 2019 collections women’s cruise, debutants tomorrow, Friday 15 June in Milan. Larenza, already at Pitti Uomo, welcomes buyers and press on Saturday 16 June from 17 to 21 in via Manzoni 45, in full quadrilatero. Since its beginnings a few years ago, he continues his career making use of knitwear as an expressive medium. This time it is ultra light, in cotton and embellished with jacquard and inlay patterns, one part in jersey and one in knitted fabric stitch; the package is decorated with inlay, with the floating point technique, embroidered or overprinted vinyl effect.
Lucio Vanotti ss19 sketch
In another area, that of Isola-Garibaldi, Vanotti‘s collection is unveiled. The location is the avant-garde of 10 Corso Como and the save the date falls tomorrow, Friday, June 15 from 17 to 20. The Bauhaus school – whose principles are to define an object not only from the point of view related to its beauty, but also to the functionality, so craftsmanship in making it happen – he interprets the opulence of the hip hop movement, according to the point of view of the creative designer from Bergamo. Thus giving life to a new interpretation of the aesthetic codes that this subculture has taken and given to fashion. Simple geometries make up harmonious and functional architectures in which the alternation between primary colors and pastel shades highlights the overlaps. The garments are sectioned, they lose components and move others, showing off the designer’s ability to destroy and rebuild. Denim – used masterfully as a concept fabric in the winter – shows a new delicacy and cotton plays to imitate it. Lines and squares make up vichy materials, classic pinstripes, prints and jacquards.
VìEN ss19 sketch
Vìen closes the excursus by showing Sunday 17, at 12 at the former Cinema Arti in via Mascagni 8. The Apulian brand interprets the current clothing style by quoting Monsieur Dior and his new look, with a classic tartan tunic of the Masaai tribe Africa. Here the indigenous world meets the urban one in which one dresses casually with used clothes sent from Europe, almost alluding then to shots of the work done by Simon Foxton in the 90s. Everything is translated into a light and draped skirt, worn under an oversized waistcoat tight at the waist: a hybrid hybrid of Vìen, where structured geometries typical of the 80s meet the contemporary and singularly sketch the figure of the woman.
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