Danilo Paura fall-winter 2019: on the freedom, or not, to be elegant

Danilo Paura autunno-inverno 2019

The problem of contemporaneity is abundance. Not intended as wealth, rather as a result of over-production. Also in the artistic field and, transversally in that of fashion. Therefore it becomes increasingly difficult to select not so much the best, as what is interesting. Like the 2019 fall-winter collection by Danilo Paura, presented in Milan during the January Men’s Fashion Week.

Danilo Paura autunno-inverno 2019

Entitled Gipsy Tour, the basic theme is freedom. Not so much social, political, but aesthetic. Elegance is a worry for the designer, an obsession that researches in dichotomous cultures, above all in terms of style, yet expressing the same sentiment: that of gipsy and punk. Both have been born for generations stoves of bourgeois codes, too precise, fake, attached to the rules that make them poor in taste. The refinement then passes in the hand of the bohemians, both women and men.

Danilo Paura autunno-inverno 2019

Gradually, traditional clothing rebels and, within the framework of the Teatro Gerolamo, act like scapestrated but fascinating actors. In fact, «a state of transaction is figured by one of the key items, the mohair sweater: the diamond pattern fades from left to right, to symbolize the reinterpretation of a classic icon.» Explains Paura. Moreover, Kurt Cobain, among other landmarks in the collection, also referred to the music of the masters, without any discord, mostly accurate. The present is always formed from the past.

Danilo Paura autunno-inverno 2019

The avant-garde does not exist. For the designer, who has created capsules with Kappa and LC23, being oneself is the real novelty. However, we need to know each other and adjust some details, perhaps with accessories like the Texan boot, made in collaboration with Raparo, who breaks the silhouette without stunning the look. The element is surprising: for years – apart from some incursions on the catwalks, as in the case of Calvin Klein by Raf Simons a few seasons ago – we did not see these shoes, and wonder if they were necessary and, above all, if they become a trend . In the first case, yes, in the sense that they belong to Danilo Paura’s creative ac; in the second, it is not known since today the factors determining the success or otherwise of a collection are no longer just the made in Italy and the harmony of the forms. In fact, we need to add the effect of social networks and other marketing strategies.

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