In January 2020 the unexpected announcement arrived: Jean Paul Gaultier, designer and founder of the French kermesse ends his career as creative director after 50 years of success and fashion history. The designer had abandoned ready-to-wear fashion for several years from 2014, when he moves away from the spotlight of the Parisian catwalks with the intention of wanting to express his creativity exclusively in haute couture without constraints. In fact, on September 27th of that year, between emotion and a standing ovation of 1500 guests.
It is inevitable to say that in recent years the fashion house has experienced unexpected moments, between turmoil and some news. On the other hand, for the enfant-terrible, fashion has always been synonymous with experimentation and irreverence, so why not change the cards again? Since the last show with Jean Paul Gaultier at the helm of the fashion house held last year on January 20th at the Theater du Châtelet in Paris and several months of absence, the designer as only brand ambassador has started a new era with a return to pret-a-porter.
At the helm of the new creative direction for the first campaign presented on May 28th is Florence Tétier, a young designer who has been able to reinterpret the designer’s philosophy in a spontaneous, satirical and irreverent way in the short film “Les Marins”. Inspired by the myth of the sailor, the atmosphere of the short film sees guests Bella Hadid, Omar Sesay and Qaher Harhash, completely ‘immersed’ in a chimerical, relaxed and a bit kitschy underwater environment – but it is by Jean Paul Gaultier and therefore everything is allowed. The models wear iconic garments and accessories such as the US navy hat and the cone-bra, made for Madonna in 1991 in the Blonde Ambition Tour.
The ready-to-wear’s garment collection, which are now available on the website, have been created following a collective and inclusive strategy: collaborating with the designers of the new generation of fashion, from season to season. For this first debut the protagonists are: Ottolinger, Palomo Spain, Marvin M’Toumo, Alan Crocetti and Lecourt Mansioo, who have developed “a la marinière” capsule collection with the external designer’s supervision, composed of genderless, asymmetrical dresses, with “striped” prints from the 90s archive, cut-outs and some vintage items.
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