SLOW LUXURY. INTERVIEW WITH MARIAELENA MALLONE MIALUIS DESIGNER

Return to a fashion that does not want to be synonymous of frenzy and eccentricity. Bring back into auge the behind the scenes of a concreate and creative project. Mialuis, Turin’s bags brand founded by architect Mariaelena Mallone, is all about this: her creations turns to sophisticated women who seek and believe there may still be a tangible balance between the speed of everyday life and a slow down that is not synonymous of laziness, but more time to devote to themselves.

When did you decide to found Mialuis?

I always wanted to be a designer and above all I always wanted to build my own company; since the schools I had clear path of studies that would allow me to realize my wish. The lighting true, however, came after a short vacation with my friends: I was in the car with them and suddenly I was filled with sadness to return on Monday in the architectural studio where I was working at the time, and in that moment I imagined my first bag. So I called my mom right away, asking her to sew the first prototypes and in just twenty days I was literally holding my first collection and, a little later, my letter of resignation to be submitted to the architectural studio.

What is the history of the name?

The brand name is the work of my mother that she created out of whole cloth by joining my diminutive, Mia, and her abbreviation, Luis (her name is Maria Luisa), who hand-embroidered on the labels of the first fifty bags sold.

What is the time when the creative aspect ends and begins the rational, practical, related to the creation of a collection?

“Creativity does not mean improvisation without method” is the phrase of Bruno Munari has always accompanied my life both private and professional. The creative part of my work is continuous and constant: I store emotions, grab images, and above all I try to speak as much as possible with the people from whom I can capture many ideas. Not surprisingly, all the bags Mialuis have a name of a woman or a man, who in one sentence, a story or a moment of life lived together they sent me something. After collecting ideas, I start to build the story that will tell the new collection: I begin to imagine the colors, choose the materials, to draw the shapes, sizes and accessories to speculate. Then came the decisive moment which is certainly the most rational when I have to transfer all the emotions and choices earlier in the realization of the actual product. From design to go to the construction of the first prototypes, and the first samples to the entire collection. It is an important moment that I love to share with my right arm: only him has the ability to assist in all the way from the creative stage to the rational.

What are the most challenging aspects in achieving your bags?

I would say the construction of the paper model and the choice of color. The paper model is one of the most important phases. It is a matter of chemistry between me and the model maker, is a moment of our own where it’s my job to transfer to him the bag I have in mind; but not always easy, given that the future of the collection depends exclusively on our choices. Another critical moment is the choice of color shades because of the Mialuis bags are all made ad hoc. In fact, after a short briefing in which I illustrate the effect that I would like my collection, the master of color studying an exclusive recipe for Mialuis that remains secret from everyone, including me!

What is today the global value of made in Italy?

Last July I was able to attend the summit of Islamic Economics in Turin, with a focus on the fashion industry, and, consequently, to confront people from the different cultural, religious and social aspect from the European Union (I am talking about countries such as Indonesia, Russia, Turkey, China and Japan) and in any exchange of opinion I had the proof that made in Italy has a very high value and still has strong growth potential. For them a product made in Italy is automatically beautiful, well-made and valuable; then in Italy we have good taste, we are good at making great products, we are great entrepreneurs, but our Country sometimes burns the wings itself, muddying the concept of made in Italy. I trust, however, the hard work that my generation is pursuing with dedication and effort to the preservation of our label and our territory.

How is Mialuis related to it?

All Mialuis suppliers and collaborators are based in Italy: the modeller and the master of color in Emilia, leather fabrics come mostly from Tuscany and the production takes place between the Emilia Romagna and Lombardy. I strongly believe that made in Italy is a positive addition to my business I’m very proud. The problem is that there is a generational change in the “Italian know-how.” Many tasks in the fields of leather goods are now abandoned, however I think it could be an excellent opportunity for young people regain along side traditional craftsmanship to new technologies and more open-minded to the world.

Where does Mialuis on the market?

Mialuis currently occupies an high-end average market and our typical customer is a person who loves refined products, niche and well made.

Future projects?

Over the next three years it will be essential to increase the distribution in Italy and abroad, so that has just been appointed a new sales manager inside. Also, another important step will be moving the company to a new location in Turin at the end of 2015. It is a historic building built early last century (seat of an old bakery) that expresses all the values of referential Mialuis: culture, passion and love for their craft. The premises have been completely refurbished and with the use of large windows we tried to create a permeable space, a careful look outward expression of a strong and living bond that exists between inexorable Mialuis and its city: Turin.

mialuis.it