Pitti Uomo 92, in the fantastic scenario of the city of Florence, has offered some brilliant shows, which opened the menswear season for the next ss18.
The Off-White by Virgil Abloh ss18 collection was presented at Pitti Uomo against the background of Palazzo Pitti in Florence, with a garnish of lights writes of artist Jenny Holzer and a live soundtrack of Opera of Florence. Named “Temperatures”, the collection presented Thursday evening is devoted to the social temperature of what is happening in the world. The theme is war and migration from the point of view of the affected and as a source of inspiration for the designer was his father and the traumas suffered when he moved from Ghana to the United States. It is a collection focused mainly on streetwear, using lightweight and technical materials, characterized by oversize shapes. The pants are wide, while the shorts are particularly cropped. The tops are open, leaving the chest uncovered. The parkas and jackets are undone, offering greater functionality. Each outfit adopts a relaxed attitude, also emphasized by the flower prints that add a touch of softness to this contemporary collection. A stylistic journey, the one undertaken by the creative director, characterized by a sort of reinterpreted tailoring for the next generation.
For his ss18, JW Anderson, host of the show, presents his collection with his own brand name, in the gardens of Villa La Pietra, on the hills outside the city. For the first time, he decides to present himself on the catwalk and not his fantasies. The most appropriate word to define his summer looks is definitely Normcore, inspired by what his wardrobe is filled of. The outfits are mainly made up of outerwear with heart prints, jeans, enriched by details like an origami game, the t-shirts are monochrome and feature vintage prints such as Coca-Cola logo revisited and shoes from collaboration with Converse, to give new lymph to the shoe icon.
Federico Curradi presents his ss18 collection in the Pitti Italics project context, which promotes Italian talent every year. The show takes place in the picturesque Bardini Museum, close to the walls full of paintings, which not only serve as a frame for the dresses presented, but also become part of them, so much that the collection took profound inspiration from this context. The designer, with his florentine origins, sends barefoot men on the catwalk, inspired by the many Florence’s souls, such as handicrafts, romance or traditional costume football. To be protagonist is in fact, a warrior with a romantic soul, that incarnates perfectly the essence of the city. The trenches are made of silk and the tailoring looks very relaxed and reinterpreted with respect to the formal dress. The color palette also took inspiration from the city and seems to be almost a postcard of Ponte Vecchio, thus highlighting the casualty and excitement of the designer.
photo courtesy: iodonna, nssmagazine, 10magazine, fashionably male
More from fashion
Loro Piana accused of not paying its indigenous workers in Peru
"Our excellence": this is the value proposition found on Loro Piana's official website under the "viçuna" section. And indeed, how could …
A COLD WALL X Converse
A COLD WALL is a recently born British brand founded in 2005 by the very young designer Samuel Ross. Samuel …
The power of the colour pink: Jacquemus, Valentino, Balenciaga
Thinking about the last season of fashion and to the various marketing campaigns and runway we can find a constant: …
