MFW: Gucci fall/winter 2020-21

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THE COLLECTION CREATED BY ALESSANDRO MICHELE FOR THE FLORENTINE BRAND EXHIBIT INSIDE A CIRCUS TENT

The Gucci fall/winter 2020-21 show surprised everyone. And not only because the fashion house founded in Florence opened the Milan fashion week with a bang – for better or for worse – but also because it posed a question: who are the real actors when it comes to basing a collection? Well the chain is quite long. From fabrics, passing through patterns; from the creative director – Alessandro Michele in this case – to the team that supports him; from makeup and wig to photographers; from press offices to showrooms, then journalists, bloggers and buyers. Several people. A circus, that of fashion.

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And he was right Michele to remember it. The designer, who always remains on the piece even when it comes to sending the invitation, obviously exclusive. The Roman stylist contacted each guest of the show with a vowel on whatsapp and a photo. A novelty in fashion but certainly not in everyday life. As it is not inventing a carousel instead of the classic catwalk: for the penultimate fashion show for Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs created a similar structure, a Parisian carousel with lots of horses and a splendid Kate Moss in white to close the parade. However, in the case of the American fashion designer there were no stylists, half-naked models to dress nor make-up artists ready to make them up.

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The point is that Alessandro Michele is good. Indeed very good at communicating his own style, full of other and high contaminations. And it excels in using the most qualified craftsmen to make dream embroideries. However, each exit is almost forced, as if it absolutely had to add something. If the designer had been an architect of the mid-800s he would have been defined as a historicist, that is, a designer who put together different styles, belonging to the past, thus thinking of finding his own. But above all in this fashion show, the spectacularization took over, while the clothes, with all their potential, remained suspended, in space and time.