Words define Covert, a workshop in which young designers create clothes for men and women, thinking about their identity, culture and talent. To guide them is Mauro Grifoni, designer and entrepreneur who with his eponymous brand has elegantly marked – without glitter and feathers – the nineties and two thousand of fashion. In 2014 he felt the need to define another page of the industry, supporting the new generation and looking for an idea of style, told by a personal code that he explains to us, exclusively.
Mauro, what moved you to found Covert after years in the fashion world with your eponymous brand?
Covert was born mainly with the intent to give an alternative, untied from the momentary tendencies, supplying essential and quality items.
Among the many key words that define Covert is clandestine, can you deepen it?
Clandestine is part of the four claims of Covert. It is, precisely, an adjective that knows secrecy as it differs from the laws and market logic. It is also part of the concept that we really do not want to let people know who the designers are.
In this regard, to design the collections is a team of young creatives, distinguished by a certain aesthetic independence. Why did you decide to rely on them and what is your role in the company?
Believing in young people means securing a future. I try to direct their creativity, sometimes exalting it sometimes balancing it.
Another word, which has always characterized your path, is made in Italy. In which aspects does it manifest itself in Covert?
Made in Italy today should not only be seen as a label or a physical place. It means savoir faire. For me it is very important that there are thinking people throughout the supply chain, who actually participate in the project and not only physically. And Italians are skilled in this.
There is a world of fashion in turmoil, which does not seem to know very well what direction it is taking. What is your point of view about it?
I think that everything that is happening is positive for the brands and also for the customer, since it is offering many ways where one is free to research one’s own style. The important thing is dressing up to feel good about yourself even sometimes coming out of your comfort zone. Every brand must know who it is and what it can really do, only in this way it can take its own direction and carve out its own space.
How does Covert fit within the industry, even at the level of market positioning?
Covert is proposed as an alternative both in terms of aesthetics and quality; it does not respond to the logic of trends, which are transient, but at the same time is attentive to changes. A brand collection is created without following a precise reasoning because creativity has no logic.
Many brands are now inspired by social networks and so-called influencers: are you moving along this line or are you getting input from other worlds?
Social networks and influencers are very important at this time and are the real revolution of the last few years. We, however, prefer in terms of research to give our vision looking for input not necessarily in our sector or in what we see published on social media, rather we try to look deeper.
Compared to when you founded Mauro Grifoni, what was the evolution of women in society, and therefore in their way of dressing?
Respect to the past I think that women have acquired more awareness and freedom, taking a central role in society. She manages to mix male garments with authority without losing femininity, knowing what she wants.
What are Covert’s plans for the future?
We have different projects, but we prefer to deal with them at the right time. For next season we will have two capsules: one will cover a small project of women’s footwear entirely made in Italy, high quality and with a linear design, also a strong attitude; the other project always dear to us is a small denim capsule with certified eco-sustainable materials, where starting from the raw material up to the components will all be directed in respect of the environment, looking for, in our little reality, to help improve all the environment that surrounds us.
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