In a haute couture season in which the client is the queen, it would be rare to find a more relevant collection than Elie Saab‘s, staged today at the Musée des Arts Decoratifs.
For Saab, her women always come first, above all artistic foaminess or the inevitable sea storm of fashion that sometimes lets elegance and glamor slip. And his women come to him because they know how to enjoy the trust that comes from exquisite and well-placed embroidery; a coherent palette of neutral tones and gems and technical mastery to allow super-high slits without the risk of compromise.
This season, Saab found inspiration from Gaudí‘s luminescent, capriciously irregular and rigorously aspirational masterpieces. This added an elegant verticality to embroideries, both on a ball-necked prom dress and an ornate, vaguely matadorese tuxedo jacket.
A brocade coat with a shawl collar, cut like a bathrobe, is encrusted with gilded and colored Gaudí-style pearls and combined with a sheathed-effect mini.
The ensemble alludes to rock’n’roll and some to the royals, and could divide both worlds in a nutshell.
Finally, a series of evening dresses, mostly in rich tones of gems (emerald, amethyst, garnet), but also in a gray and white Gaudí-like shadow print, whose sculptural ripples take the place of any other form of ornament. The best ones are obviously in silk chiffon, impeccably flattering and fluctuating.
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