SARTORIAL IRONY. INTERVIEW WITH MATTEO LAMANDINI

There are stories apparently already written . All, we do not know how, is decided. But every so often it happens that something snaps, the right path changes its course. This is how new perspectives, new challenges, born. That’s what happened to Matteo Lamandini, class ’89, who has gone from accounting study, numbers, to the design of men’s clothes. This intertwining of events finds its archetype in the “uniform” typical of the financial world, the banker: pants, shirt, jacket and tie. From this moment his creative world it is realized into a mess tin with prestigious brands like Marni, the victory in the contest Designer for Tomorrow in 2014 that allowed him to found his eponymous brand and finally, a collaboration with Tommy Hilfiger.

Matteo, you have a past study that links you to the world of finance, and it is thanks to this that your job perspective has changed. Could you tell us how?

I undertook the accountancy studies for the possibility of a future work, but the economy was not my strength. I was strongly attracted by the uniforms of the banker. So, once the studies were over, I decided to attend the Istituto Marangoni and put me to draw these uniforms that I was running after some time.

What are your stylistic reference points that never change when you realize a new collection?

For the stylistic aspect my key points from which I always start drawing are the formal aspect and tailoring: the first because, as mentioned earlier, also contains the uniforms of the banker. I always start from here with the aim of defuse it through contrasting elements or that apparently do not seem to be able to coexist with it. For example, in the spring summer 2017 collection (presented these days at Pitti, ed) I tried to put him at the center of an ironic confrontation with the world of the Berlin underground. This is to make it more youthful, suitable for a wider audience.

What is made in Italy for you and how much this is critical today in fashion?

Made in Italy is a value which we must be proud. We need above all to keep it that way in this world, since lately it is gradually disappearing. For made in Italy I do not mean just in terms of production but also in fabrics and, especially, its creative spirit. It has always been popular with foreigners and today as never before is an increasingly sought feature. Precisely for this reason we must insist in order to maintain unchanged the three values that I listed earlier.

You studied in important institutions and worked in fashion houses such as Marni and Tommy Hilfiger. What aspects of these experiences are present in your collections?

Since every working environment I managed to derive the characteristic elements of the brand itself as very different. I managed to acquire a different style ideas: from a more experimental, while the other more sporty. The experience from Marni was very informative especially regarding the search for detail and for the study on volumes, while Tommy Hilfiger has managed to make me appreciate a stylistic world that I had never considered or that up to that time I had not been attracted : I managed to rake in various sports items that we now find in my collections. These experiences were also positive as regards the different working methods, approach: very heterogeneous, but both educational.

What are your future plans?

I just started my path, or the birth of my brand; today at its second collection in the shops. Besides that I continue to work with Tommy Hilfiger. I would also like to get my message through my collections in more countries as possible so as to be able to grow.

matteolamandini.com