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The first thing<\/b> you hear<\/b> is techno<\/b>.<\/p>\n
The second thing<\/b> you see<\/b> are quick steps<\/b>, but they don’t touch the ground<\/b>. They seem to fly<\/b>, float<\/b>. On a cloud, what is it?<\/b> It is soft<\/b>, this can be seen, or rather: it “feels”<\/b>. Those steps seem to sink<\/b>, light but fast on a floor made of clouds<\/b>. All a precise index of that slightly surrealist trend of that Belgian genius called Raf Simons<\/a><\/b>: you take a room, buy kilometers of fabric and then dress it up, and thus you get a place that is no longer what it was. But it is a new thing, which is not known.<\/p>\n The designer is used to these ideas<\/b>, he had already seen it when<\/b>, for the first time, he had completely covered the walls of the Dior Haute Couture runaway’s locations<\/b> with a million orchids<\/b>. And there, among those orchids<\/b> (a splendid tribute to the couturier Christian Dior<\/b> who, the evening before his debut<\/b>, had a bouquet of black and white orchids delivered to the home of the textile industrialist Marcel Boussac<\/b>, who had believed in him by investing 60 thousands of francs<\/b>), the hotel was no longer a hotel. Raf Simons uses this trick to transport you to a dreamlike place<\/b>, halfway between dream and reality.<\/b><\/p>\n But, if it is true that every inch of earth was actually voluptuous carpet, it is also true that monochrome is the symbol of eternal revolutionary classicism<\/b> (forgive me the oxymoron, but how do you explain it to a woman who creates a perfect tailored suit and curls the sleeves until they almost look like the short sleeves of a jacket?) by Miuccia<\/b>. Red, purple, white, blue<\/b>: in contrast<\/b>, as indeed is the duo of designers. Strong contrast in color,<\/b> in the struggle between classic and modern<\/b>, between<\/b> rigid and<\/b> relaxed<\/b>, strong contrast between fantasy and monochrome<\/b>.<\/p>\n Then they dance<\/b>. In the dislocated rooms<\/b>, the boys<\/b> dance<\/b>. They dance to Richie Hawtin’s techno music <\/b>and it is no coincidence that Miuccia Prada in the final conversation<\/b> says: “We have been living in a bubble for months”<\/i>. We, like her, feel that bubble <\/b>simply by looking<\/b> and listening<\/b>: it is in every room<\/b>, empty<\/b>, in every moment<\/b> of that muffled music<\/b>, with her deep bass<\/b>. We perceive the sense of loneliness of those kids who walk fast in that senseless<\/b>, empty<\/b> but<\/b> oppressive<\/b> space: masterful work of one of the architects <\/b>(but I would say above all essayists<\/b>, recommending reading Junkspace<\/b> and promising you a radical change in the way of living the space you have around you) most promising of our century, Rem Koolhaas<\/b><\/a>, who has been collaborating for years in the creation of the sets for the Prada fashion shows<\/b>.<\/p>\n The highlight is not long in coming<\/b>: a tall and slender boy, with seventies hair (by now we could define 2020\/2021 as the minor children of the 70s, who steal everything from him without asking him for anything), wears a suit thin wool that wraps the body like a glove<\/b>. They call it Long John<\/b> and it is the essence of that absurd mix that the<\/b> coronavirus has given to us<\/b>, a mix that is constantly poised and lost between the desire to dress and the impossibility of giving up the comfort of home clothing<\/b>. Also known as ‘the pajamas’.<\/p>\n \u201cWe were looking for something that was intimate, tactile, that hugged the body but didn’t hide it\u201d<\/i>, explains Simons.<\/p>\n Among the more enterprising<\/b> pieces we also note the oversized bomber jackets<\/b>, worn over further long patterned coats and the typical prints of the maison<\/b> that, here and there, can be seen on men’s leggings.<\/b><\/p>\n But the operation that seemed most evident to me,<\/b> and also the one I appreciate most personally, in the men’s fashion show FW 21\/22<\/b> is probably the one done on the styling<\/b>, matching every single garment to another in a not<\/b> so banal <\/b>and not at all obvious way. Does it seem trivial to say? It happens more and more rarely to see catwalks<\/b> in which, in addition to the undoubted aesthetic beauty of some single garment, there is a broader reflection<\/b>, which also gives the public a true flavor of the brand.<\/b><\/p>\n Prada is not Prada because that nylon bag so simple yet so chic is adorable. <\/b>Prada is Prada because wearing that<\/b> chic<\/b> black nylon bag means being a contemporary, determined<\/b> woman<\/b> with a quick step on the street.<\/b> And this is a mood: that bag, which is now just an example, fails in its purpose if the rest of the person does not run with her to achieve the same goal<\/b>. So all the catwalks where in addition to style there is also styling<\/b>, the excellent tool that transmits the attitude of a maison to the spectators of the great fashion show.<\/b> Have you ever thought of wearing a bomber jacket with printed lining to a long coat, <\/b>combining it all with a jumpsuit that dares with another bold print? Not me. I will do it? I don’t think so, but besides me I’m sure someone out there will look at the look and think “I never thought about it, I might do it tomorrow”<\/b>.<\/p>\n At the end of the show the two stylists then continued with their tradition, founded in the duo’s first debut show<\/b>: a conversation with the public, <\/b>made by very young experts in the sector, still students.<\/b> Given Simons’ proximity to subcultures and the world of youth and the ultra-modern result obtained from the<\/b> Prada-Simons reflection<\/b>, it was legitimate that the dialogue was precisely with young people of the most recent generation<\/b>. The most interesting question? How they deal with conflicts.<\/b><\/p>\n It is here that Miuccia shows an almost exciting artistic maturity<\/b>, she replies: it was the conflict I was looking for.<\/b><\/p>\n From the clash, therefore, the form is born.<\/b><\/p>\n You could be also interested in:<\/p>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/00001-Prada-Mens-FW-21.jpg\")
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