{"id":132314,"date":"2021-01-03T15:45:17","date_gmt":"2021-01-03T13:45:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/?p=132314"},"modified":"2021-01-03T15:45:17","modified_gmt":"2021-01-03T13:45:17","slug":"between-helena-stoltings-disgust-and-fascination","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/between-helena-stoltings-disgust-and-fascination\/","title":{"rendered":"Between Helena St\u00f6lting’s disgust and fascination"},"content":{"rendered":"

\"\"<\/p>\n

Helena St\u00f6lting<\/b><\/a> is a young designer<\/b>, graduated<\/b> in fashion<\/b> designer<\/b> at the Universit\u00e4t<\/b> Der<\/b> K\u00fcnste<\/b> Berlin,<\/b> one of the Berlin<\/b> universities<\/b> that was born <\/b>at the end of the 1600s<\/b> and immediately specialized in the study of artistic and creative subjects<\/b>.<\/p>\n

From a visual<\/b> scenario<\/b> that recalls the lava of volcanoes<\/b>, mud<\/b> and slime<\/b>, Helena’s<\/b> reflection<\/b> on fashion is born<\/b>. Its fashion<\/b>. So what’s the beauty<\/b>? What is still<\/b> able<\/b> to give us emotion<\/b>, immersed as we are in the supreme vortex of stimuli that the Internet gives us?<\/b><\/p>\n

Perhaps the only emotions<\/b> we still feel<\/b>, in an almost primordial<\/b> way<\/b> and not controlled <\/b>or foreseen, are the horror<\/b> and disgust<\/b>. Or at least, this is how the designer <\/b>must have thought when she decided to place attention at the center of her creative<\/b> process<\/b> for that deadlock in which, looking at something strange<\/b> and different<\/b>, we perceive that sense of indecision between disgust and charm<\/b>. And in an indefinite instant we perceive both of them<\/b>, as the dead life (or living death, as you prefer) of Schr\u00f6dinger’s cat<\/b>.<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Liquids<\/b>, according to Helena<\/b>, are among the first elements capable of generating this sensation<\/b> that moves between disgust and fascination<\/b>. The designer will therefore concentrate on bringing them back into fashion<\/b>: all of her garments<\/b> are like this, made of actually solid material<\/b> but which recalls in all respects a dense liquid<\/b>, piled up in shapes<\/b> that are not very harmonious to the eye<\/b>, as happens with mud or a dense volcani<\/b>c and shapeless mass<\/b>.<\/p>\n

The material is assembled<\/b> without<\/b> rules<\/b>, in a rough<\/b> way<\/b> to form once a heel<\/b>, once a handle of a bag <\/b>and so on.<\/p>\n

You say “it has to do with the appropriation and aestheticization of disgust”,<\/i><\/b> in which the impulse of attraction<\/b> and that of repulsion play a significant role<\/b>. They are emotions<\/b>.<\/p>\n

The starting<\/b> point<\/b> of his work is the observation of all those bodily phenomena that leave us dumbfounded, disgusted<\/b>, with the desire to look away <\/b>and quickly place it elsewhere. These emotions express nothing but fear of the different and the stranger.<\/b><\/p>\n

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In a society<\/b> that produces products that make our fluids invisible <\/b>and that continues to show itself to us as a purely male chauvinist<\/b>, in which the only liquids we <\/b>are allowed to talk about are sperm<\/b>, sweat<\/b> and tears<\/b>, Helena St\u00f6lting’s<\/b> collection<\/b><\/span> intends be a means to deepen the bond between oneself <\/b>and the most intimate<\/b> part<\/b> of oneself<\/b>. The link between ‘us’ that we make visible to anyone is ‘us’,<\/b> the part under the clothes, the part that nobody sees.<\/b><\/p>\n

By destroying the preconceptions<\/b>, abstract<\/b> and visual<\/b>, through almost artistic plastic creations<\/b>, the designer’s garments encounter fashion in the most general<\/b> form of the term<\/b>, but completely re-invent the categories of material and color<\/b>. The bag is always the bag.<\/p>\n

The shoe is always a shoe. But the way in which the color<\/b> is conceived<\/b> (a thickened mass of multicolored grains <\/b>that create a discontinuous<\/b> pattern<\/b>) and the material<\/b> (conceived<\/b> as mud<\/b>–like<\/b> or semi<\/b>–transparent<\/b> surface) is completely new and more<\/b> ‘artistic<\/b>‘ than<\/b> fashionable<\/b>.<\/p>\n

These pieces<\/b> are an artistic<\/b> medium<\/b> that bring what is internal, secret and hidden<\/b> into the open and make it, finally, present to the world.<\/b><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

You could be interested also in:<\/p>\n

Interview with Guillaume Philibert, Founder and Creative Director of Filling Pieces<\/a><\/p>\n

Interview with Mattia Guolo, a reference for portraiture in the field of Italian music<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Helena St\u00f6lting is a young designer, graduated in fashion designer at the Universit\u00e4t Der K\u00fcnste Berlin, one of the Berlin universities that was born at the end of the 1600s and immediately specialized in the study of artistic and creative […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":70,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[69448,9,16,69449,3479,69456],"tags":[],"yst_prominent_words":[],"acf":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132314"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/70"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=132314"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/132314\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=132314"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=132314"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=132314"},{"taxonomy":"yst_prominent_words","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.waitfashion.com\/en\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/yst_prominent_words?post=132314"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}