A few days after the debut of Burberry‘s new creative direction entrusted to the Englishman Daniel Lee, the brand releases its first campaign, with archive clothes, directed by the creative himself with a reinterpretation of the brand’s codes. Far from the image placed at the union between tailoring and street culture to which Riccardo Tisci had dedicated 10 collections, the new communication is a tribute to the subcultures of the homeland, the tumultuous London, and to that sleaze aesthetic born at the dawn of the 90, when the brand’s iconic check was as synonymous with tradition as it was with provocation.
So the iconic images that showed the trench coat worn by a twenty-year-old Cindy Crawford in the 90s campaigns give way to a line-up of well-known faces who promise to be new brand ambassadors: Skepta, Vanessa Redgrave, John Glacier, Liberty Ross, Lennon Gallagher, Shygirl, Jun Ji-hyun and Raheem Sterling. Young, not very rebellious but certainly the tomorrow of the brand born a hundred years ago, as the historic wording ‘prosum’ (‘forward’) recals, in support of a story telling that continues.
House friends and contemporary icons fill the space with realistic and impromptu shots taken in the symbolic places of the English capital by Tyrone Lebon, a well-known photographic signature to the newcomer Lee who calls him back after several collaborations, entrusting him with the visual communication. The new Equestian Knight logo also appears to accompany the photos, recovering it from the photographic archives dating back to the first creative direction of Christopher Bailey and to the last one of Tisci who used it for the last collaboration with Supreme.
”We want to remind our audience that Burberry is a story that doesn’t stop, but lets itself be written by the new creative generations” explains CEO Jonathan Akeroyd, reiterating how close Daniel Lee is to GenZ and how much a new period is opening up for the English brand that wants to reach five billion in annual sales. Supporting the economic enterprise is the new production of bags with an expansion of the category, the recovery of the heritage, and the 00s contamination: all strategic moves for a new repositioning in the very young range, defined by Akeroyd as the “propeller of tomorrow ”.
Tradition, contamination, and englishness are the three words that best explain Lee’s arrival at Burberry, but will he be the right one for a new long and profitable tenure of the brand? Surely now the brand is more British than ever, from the offices to the production.
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