“An alternative haute-couture maison”. These are the first words by Daniel Roseberry, Schiaparelli’s creative director, while talking about the new couture collection for the Spring Summer 2021.
The designer merely follows the stylistic revolution that Elsa Schiaparelli, the Coco Chanel’s ‘antagonist’, began in the 20s. Sculptural dresses whisper the Cubist and African art, but also the year 1924 when Andrè Breton published the Surrealist Manifesto.
In the Manifest he wrote: “Psychic automatism in its pure state dictated by thought, in the absence of any control exercised by reason, exempt from any aesthetic or moral concern.” Words that Schiaparelli made instantly as own words.
Her experimental dresses gave shape to her thoughts – “exempt from any aesthetic or moral concern” – they followed an avant-garde aesthetic that Roseberry is proud to perpetuate in order to challenge the ‘rules’ of the Parisian fashion.
Garments break down gender clichés, they work on the body, wrap it and exalt it without asking them about its nature. Precious stones, marmoreal jewels, gold locks and piercings embellish Schiaparelli’s dresses; they exalt the shocking and make us to reflect about the real meaning of ‘beauty’. Ellenistic chiseled bustiers exalt silhouettes as if they were contemporary heroines; they call for the picture of woman as mother, with the iconography of Madonna and the Child.
Schiaparelli’s theatricality is exalted by metres of Baroque fabrics; they embellish the original silhouettes between silks, velvets, sequins and lighter vaporous fabrics. Among the details, a big shocking pink bow stands out, in addition to Surrealistic lines in accessories and also cargo pants, that replace traditional haute couture skirts. “They are clothes that make you aware of your body, that make you think about how you move in the world” told Roseberry. ‘Schiaparelli’s dress’ challenges the concept of ‘charm’ and explores it with fantasy and fun.
See the other images from the collection:
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