ESSENCE AND SENSUALITY: SAINT LAURENT BY VACCARELLO SPRING-SUMMER 2020
«The essence of the cut.» Stefano Pilati introduces one of his collections for the then Yves Saint Laurent. Maison for which he played the role of creative director until 2012. He explains this to Anna Wintour, in the 2009 documentary The September Issue dedicated to her and signed by R.J. Cutler. And it is precisely the tailoring that defines the history of the Parisian fashion house, founded in 1961 by Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé. In fact, every designer who then took the reins has respected this value in every collection. Also the Saint Laurent by Vaccarello spring-summer 2020.
Trousers, a stiletto or a boot. A shirt, maybe sheer and a blazer. Simple? Pas du tout. Anyone who is lucky enough to be able to wear a vintage Saint Laurent jacket and a recent model knows that there is no difference in terms of garment construction. Of course, for Slimane the aesthetics was skinny, cubist for Vaccarello; for the Texan Tom Ford was very personal, sexy and glamorous, while for Pilati it was pure elegance. Despite the differences in vision, the famous cut has remained such.
THE SHOW: BETWEEN KATE MOSS AND CONTEMPORANEITY
Every exit, except, perhaps, of long evening dresses, brings to mind one woman: Kate Moss. Precisely to the model, since time immemorial testimonial of the Parisian fashion house, to the Glastombury festival some years ago. The look? Hunter anti-rain boots, tailored vest, shoulder bag, short pants by McQueen and belt with studs. On the catwalk the look is interpreted by Kaia Gerber. Or, coming to the present day indeed, a few hours ago, to La Moss, sitting in the front row at the show – close to her top friend Amber Valletta – dressed in leather pants, tops, heels and blazers. Strictly in black.
Embroideries, nuances, even here heart-shaped necklines (look at the Milan collections and you will discover that they have been made by practically anyone) but of another type: unique, different from one another. And then knee-high boots, the Turkish-style pants that only the maison is able to do, avoiding making the models that wear them look like potato sacks. Vaccarello can afford to do what it wants, not to use too much color, to give a damn if it’s summer and you have to have whips and lazzi, pink and yellow, to keep up with the contemporaneity. Because these times are not iridescent. They are dark, decadent and at the same time sensual and intoxicating. He recently inaugurated the concept store of the brand on the Droite bank of the Seine. Maybe, but this collection has all the flavor of being in pure Saint Laurent rive gauche style. Saint Laurent by Vaccarello spring-summer 2020.
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