After making his debut just a year ago with his Couture brand, Charles De Vilmorin is appointed new Creative Director of the Rochas maison, an Interparfums brand whose ready-to-wear is licensed to Him-High Italian manufacturing.
Before him, the maison was directed and carried out by the Neapolitan designer Alessandro Dell’Acqua, whose main task was to reinterpret the “Rochas” woman: feminine, energetic but new, simple. In 2016, the style of Dell’Acqua was commented on at the French maison with words that expressed the enchantment of seeing the brand “dust” from the dramatic and theatrical dust that the clothes had taken, in favor of a “spring of fresh taste” by the designer.
To date, with the abandonment of Dell’Acqua and the entry of De Vilmorin, we just have to make small but deductive predictions of what the future awaits us.
- 2013: the Rochas maison hires Alessandro Dell’Acqua as Creative Director
- Fall – Winter 2020/2021 collection the Neapolitan designer abandons the brand
- In the meantime, in 2019, a very young and promising stylist, named Charles De Vilmorin, graduated from one of the most famous Fashion Design schools in the world: the De la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne (institute from which, among other , Yves Saint Laurent and Valentino also come out)
- We are in 2020 and Charles launches his Couture collection, essential (in my opinion) to understand why he was chosen, then, the following year to become the new face of the French maison.
Let’s take a look at Charles De Vilmorine’s SS20, signed with his namesake brand.
The video presentation of the fashion show shows himself, intent on aiming with his eyes fixed in the viewfinder, a ” surreal ” world: a concept already very close to the surrealist appeal of Rochas, which already inspired Dell’Acqua in the Spring Summer 2016.
In the surreal world, eccentric characters populate the scene. The clothes already show one of De Vilmorin’s most advanced skills, namely the masterful use of color (for which he has often been praised). Flowers, polka dots, marked outlines of the lines are just some of the features that distinguish his style.
Even Alessandro Michele, Creative Director of Gucci, had already noticed the great skills of the 24-year-old designer and did not miss the opportunity to involve him in the 2020 Guccifest experience.
Charles De Vilmorin, speaking of his new role, reveals the closeness to the brand since ancient times. The great-aunt, Louise De Vilmoran, a writer by profession, was in fact very close friends with Hélène Rochas, the wife of the founder of the house Marcel Rochas.
What shall we expect from the next Rochas’ collection?
De Vilmorin’s debut collection will be presented on the occasion of SS22. The designer already has very clear ideas: it will be a large collection, with many different themes and silhouettes, all with the intention of making the collection visual and aesthetic.
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