We are now used to surprising ourselves in front of the eccentric charm of Moschino and, even more so, in front of the bizarre and extravagant ideas of its creative director: Jeremy-Scott. On the other hand, he is or is not the one who has managed to transform a street sign or a crystal chandelier into iconic pieces to wear. Well, this time too he managed to recreate something surreal.
The mystery of the night, the silent alleys, the smoke that hangs from the manholes, are all clues that herald the beginning of a classic thriller as if at any moment Humphrey Bogart should appear in “The Great Sleep” of 1946. And precisely from the cinematic elegance of the great icon that the American designer takes inspiration from.
The final result is a digital video that presents the new men’s collection for Fall Winter 2021/22, recreating the nostalgic atmosphere of the 1940s film noir of old Hollywood. But the real touch of class is given by the undefined brushstrokes, the crests of acrylic paint and the watercolor shades that contaminate the fit of the clothes, evoking the post-impressionist era.
Animated by Moschino‘s intrinsic irony and by the memory of the great masters such as Cezanne and Gauguin, the designer takes the brush in hand and gives free rein to his artistic vein, like a painter in front of his canvas.
Each garment thus becomes a tableau vivant to be worn with color games in perfect balance between light and shadow, between action and emotion, between concrete and conceptual. The collection opens with coats, perfectos, trench coats and parkas, and then gives way to sweatshirts, crew neck sweaters, blazers with argyle inlays, cargo jackets and sweatpants.
Brilliant velvet-effect shades that sometimes recall the surrounding signs are complemented by a darker palette. Gray, deep lavender, midnight blue and black come together for an American dream allure.
All that remains is to admire this film noir with a Hollywood flavor in its golden age under the direction of Moschino, in which the sartorial elegance of stage costumes seems to come to life in real paintings.
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