THE MILANESE DESIGNER SENDS THE INTELLECTUAL AND AESTHETIC PARADOXES OF CONTEMPORARY FASHION ON THE RUNWAY
The Prada men’s autumn-winter 2020-21 collection is a manifesto. Not only of the Milanese brand but also of a micro-society, one belonging to a certain conception of fashion, which does not want to surrender to easy debates. In particular those «on classic and streetwear, on masculinity and femininity, on whether the world is worse or better than before. And on sustainability.» Miuccia Prada speaks, in the backstage of the show.
The place where male garments are shown to the press and buyer public, during Milan Fashion Week, is a symbolic representation of these paradoxes, now stale, sustainability aside, given that it is the trend of the moment and has itself become a concept of mere profit. Two eden that appear exactly as part of the title of the show says: surreal. At the center of them the architect Rem Koolhaas (Fondazione Prada) created two equestrian sculptures, for the occasion. The scenography is by the AMO studio.
The models walk, bringing with them not only perfect clothes from a sartorial point of view, but also a point of view on youth – therefore the future -, far from burnt. According to the designer, in fact, «young people are always and only mentioned in two cases, either when you want to sell them something or when you seek their consent. It is not fair for me and I believe that young people should be respected. This is why I believe that fashion should include them in a broader discourse that also embraces their way of being elegant.»
The classic is the best way to bring out elegance. So there is no shortage of camel-colored over coats or in check fabric, tight-fitting wool waistcoat. Shirts and trousers in pendant, to soften the figure. Bags and laptop holders to make it practical and cool, so much so that they could be included in the women’s collection. The Prada man walks, does not run; meditate and ask himself questions. To which, at least for this fashion show, we can only give a positive response. And where «clothes are the least of the problems», concludes Miuccia Prada.
Read here last article on Prada.
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