There are those who choose to show the models on the catwalk without the presence of the public for the current restrictions, those who opt for a digital video presentation and those who finally decide to make their debut for the fashion week in a very particular way and alternative, choosing the pages of a book for the launch of your collection. The latter is the case of Loewe which for autumn winter 2021 presents “A Show in a Book”. An unpublished bound volume of 200 pages dedicated to the graphic works of the great artist and writer Joe Brainard.
The publication contains some of the rarest collages and cartoons that the artist created between the 60s and 70s. An example of this are his famous pansies with brightly colored corollas and which, after being modeled, stretched, shrunk and enlarged excessively according to the personal taste of the brand, become a predominant graphic on many of the items presented. Like a child at the height of his imagination, so the designer Jonathan Anderson seems to have indulged himself in a sort of creative art attack, juggling with great skill between essential lines, clean silhouettes and inlays, patchwork and dreamlike collage.
But the most interesting aspect is given by the appeal of sub-cultures, stripped of banal canons and clichés and reinterpreted in a completely subversive way. Through cutouts, decompositions and assembly, what emerges is an orderly chaos that sees at the forefront: grunge striped sweaters, tight bondage or wide-volume trousers and rave-style wallabee shoes, the black of the beatniks, style sheepskin coats hippy and duffle coats of culture mod. Even the classicism of the trench coat and the pure functionality of the peacoat are revolutionized alongside the geometries and vibrant colors of the new wave.
In the same way, the accessories are marked by applications of all kinds and upholstery prints. Do not miss the Puzzle bag to which is added a wide range of tote-bags in various combinations of calfskin and canvas with the logo in plain sight.
Following the upcycling perspective, an oversized T-shirt depicting the new sustainable line is included in the book’s packaging: Eye / LOEWE / Nature, designed for a lifestyle in contact with nature. For me this book is a sort of ‘Show in a book’, the catalog of an exhibition that has not yet taken place, as well as a manifesto that has inspired the Loewe collections. Undeniably, with these words the designer invites us to appear the volume which, in addition to illustrating the fascinating universe of the brand, will certainly be an elegant piece of furniture to be kept at home.
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