The new and renewed edition of White Milano was staged from 23 to 26 September during the Milan Fashion Week and has rediscovered its two historic locations of Tortona 27 Superstudio Più and Tortona 54 Base Milano Ex Ansaldo. The main theme? Sign of the time, to celebrate the aesthetic revolution carried on between events and installations in the name of fusion between avantgarde and classic style.
This year White Milano has proposed a special and innovative project: in addition to the numerous exhibitors, have been set up by Dimorestudio 7 Secret Rooms, a project in which, each brand has told its own identifying value, all in a new key entirely played on an essential dialogue between fashion and design. Kiton, Massimo Alba, Aspesi, Incotex, Tagliatore, Finamore and Borsalino were the protagonists of this novelty. Looking to the future through a revolutionary language, they reinterpreted the female universe through the key pieces of the male wardrobe.
The fluidity of gender was also celebrated through “Unconventional 002“, a space entirely dedicated to Vivienne Westwood where the clothes of the Fall/Winter 2021 collection were exhibited, in a vision free from preconceptions related to gender and aimed at a unisex style. The collection is divided into different stylistic stories and capsules, through which the classic British tailoring emerges, with the iconic styles of the House. Traditional wool fabrics in classic patterns such as tartan, fishbone pattern and the Prince of Wales, blend with recycled denim, viscose obtained from sustainable sources and organic silk through an innovative printing system, to create a collection with low environmental impact.
Innovation was also the main focus of the partnership between White and the British Fashion Council, which has been translated into the exhibition area ROOMS in LONDON where the strength and depth of the London fashion community has emerged thanks to the 11 selected designers: AHLUWALIA, ANCUTA SARCA, COMPLETED WORKS, DURAN LANTINK, EDWARD CRUTCHLEY, HELEN KIRKUM, JORDANLUCA, MAXIMILIAN DAVIS, PALMER//HARDING, SAUL NASH AND SWEET LIME JUICE.
A corner with strong bright colors and full of brightness is that of Swarovski who chooses the White to celebrate its 126 years of history. The brand looks to the future with a new and ambitious vision positioning itself in the sphere of affordable luxury.
“Ignite your dreams” is the watchword of the new Swarovski era, set in an imaginary Wonderlab that, in the words of Giovanna Engelbert, Creative Director of the House, represents a laboratory of creativity radically inclusive, inviting the world to celebrate its individuality.
The new Swarovski collections by Giovanna Engelbert explore the essential geometries of crystal, inspired by the first designs by Daniel Swarovski, to reach an absolutely new creative dimension. The celebration of Austrian heritage and Swarovski excellence in crystal making, offer a variety of jewelry in endless colors, complex textures and exclusive cut stones, which allow every expression of style: classic, punk, sweet and surprising.
The White also has always been a springboard for emerging brands, so we have selected for you some “Best of”!
DUARTE
Portuguese brand born from the creative talent of streetwear designer Ana Duarte, whose style is strongly influenced by an innovative approach to procurement and production. After being awarded the C.L.A.S.S. Icon Award 2021, as a brand committed to protecting the environment through the use of eco-sustainable materials, for SS22 has created a collection of 40 unisex pieces, all inspired by Tadao, his faithful four-legged friend.
He is in fact the undisputed protagonist of this line and is represented as a superhero guardian of a world that fights against the environmental problems generated by humanity. The superhero Tadao, as a protector of sustainability, fights against these modern monsters: Smog Man, Fire Man, Deforestation Man and Wave Man, which represent respectively air pollution, climate change, the destruction of forests and excessive water consumption.
The assortment consists of 20 outfits in which the combination of colors plays a crucial role in the overall view of the collection: bright red and mustard yellow alternate with denim tones, gray and pale blue, merging with colored prints, while the black accents seem to emphasize the silhouette of the garments. The real protagonists, however, are innovative and eco-friendly materials. In fact, they come from natural fibres, transformations of secondary raw materials or even cutting-edge technologies: new-generation polymers, biological-based materials, artificial materials and bio-manufactured materials.
GONÇALO PEIXOTO
Founder and stylist of the eponymous brand of women’s clothing based in Porto, since its inception, Gonçalo Peixoto has been a young artist in the field of fashion, driven by his crazy love for clothing and his need to create.
“ALICE WE WILL MEET IN THE WONDERLAND” is the wonderland of memory of Gonçalo Peixoto who inspired his collection for the SS22 season.
“On a journey through the treasure trove of memories of my grandmother Alice, the ‘we will meet in wonderland’, reflects the hope of a meeting with the person who influenced my childhood in a very impactful way and recreates the imaginary and utopian place where our souls meet again”, explains the designer. A candid desire that materializes in silhouettes and fabrics in shape and image of Gonçalo’s grandmother, through an intense exploration of floral patterns, crochet and brocades.
A mix of “Saudade” and cheerfulness, the collection is mainly dominated by greens, a sign of “hope in returning to normality“, but also by a wide palette of pink and purple that try to “celebrate the hot seasons“.
VADERETRO
A bit anachronistic, a bit outdated, this Made in Italy brand is at the same time anti-modern and completely retrogarde. Vaderetro is not just a brand, it is an art de vivre. It spreads arts, cultures and subcultures through its own unique and varied clothing style, without sex.
The SS22 collection entitled “SPLENETIC” is chapter IV in the creative path of the brand. Here Vaderetro chooses to interpret Baudelaire’s Spleen, which reflects beyond melancholy, absolute and existential boredom and its ideal. In other words, aspiration to perfection.
This fourth paragraph translates into the search for originality in simplicity: the aesthetics touches upon Baudelaire’s dandyism in favour of a sober and effortless, but nonconformist style, which makes fun of the bourgeoisie imprisoned in its conventions. It is a paradoxical marriage, which manifests itself through meticulously hand-finished tailoring garments and contrasted by rough edges, bold graphics and paintings printed on elegant dresses.
“SPLENETIC” in short, is the DNA of Vaderetro: a need to exist against the current, a behavior that oscillates between charm and provocation, the aesthetic that overcomes morality, the creation of a unique style, “the last outbreak of heroism in decadent times”. Charles Baudelaire.
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